Seus Land Exchange Inc.

Tuesday, November 17, 2009

Improve Your Timberland with a Pond


Landowners are constantly looking for ways to improve their properties, and it depends on the individual landowner whether the increase in value is measured in dollars or enjoyment. Building a pond is one investment that can increase both the recreational and economic value of a property. Ponds add several benefits. They increase recreational opportunities through fishing, hunting, and swimming. Ponds promote wildlife diversity by attracting several types of waterfowl while also adding various reptiles (which can be good or bad depending on the landowner). Ponds also provide agricultural users with valuable water for crops and livestock. Ponds located near homes or cabins can help with fire suppression which can be a major benefit in some of the more rural parts of the state. And, last but not least, ponds add to the overall aesthetics of a property.
However, like any other management activity landowners need to have a plan in place to ensure that their pond is built correctly in order to meet their desired needs and objectives. Building a pond requires a considerable investment of time and money, and many of Georgia’s landowners are not quite sure of where to start. While there are numerous publications on pond building and management, the purpose of this article is to provide landowners with a general guide for pond building and to direct them on where to go to get additional help and information.
There are several steps landowners must consider when building a pond such as site selection, obtaining a permit, construction, and management. These steps require a landowner to interact with different resource managers and contractors.
Much consideration should go into deciding where to locate a pond on your property. Proper site selection will save a landowner valuable time and money. Several factors should be considered when selecting the pond site - water source, soils, topography, and surrounding land use all will affect the type and size of pond you can build. In Georgia, ponds receive their water from either streams or from surface runoff from the surrounding watershed. It is important that the source should be adequate enough to fill and maintain the desired water level. Ponds should be placed on soils that have a clay content of at least 20 percent. Fine textured clays and silty clays will hold water better and prevent leakage as opposed to the more course textured sandy soils. The topography surrounding the site should be studied to see where to best locate a dam. Dams should be placed as to minimize construction cost while still allowing for the desired pond size. Finally, landowners should take note of the land use in the pond’s watershed. Is the watershed comprised mostly of forestland or pasture and does it contain a sizeable livestock operation? The surrounding land use will have a big impact on the quantity and quality of water that enters the pond.
Once you have selected your pond site, go to your local Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS) office to obtain your permit. The NRCS will assist you in determining the type of permit is required and provide you with the appropriate forms for each type.
The majority of ponds constructed on private lands in Georgia will fall under one of two permit types, agricultural farm ponds or recreational ponds.
Agricultural Farm Pond – The primary use of the pond is for the irrigation of crops or for watering for livestock operations. To be eligible for this permit, the applicant must be an agricultural producer who is actively engaged in agricultural or livestock production. These ponds are designed and constructed to meet the required water demand for the desired crop or livestock. Farm ponds 10 acres or less can be approved by the NRCS while ponds larger than 10 acres must be approved by the US Army Corps of Engineers (USACE).
Recreational Pond – The primary purpose of the pond is for recreation and personal enjoyment. These ponds are for landowners whose property is not engaged in agricultural activity such as row cropping, tree nurseries, or livestock production. Recreational ponds must be less than five acres and must be approved by the USACE. The majority of ponds built on properties that are primarily timberland will fall under this permit.
The NRCS can also aid landowners by inspecting the pond site to ensure that the pond is well located and that the pond will have minimal impacts on streams and wetlands. It is important to note that pond construction on and around streams and wetlands may require the landowner to mitigate the impacted areas. This simply means that the landowner will have to buy mitigation credits in order to build a pond in these areas. Mitigation credits and costs can vary greatly depending on the site and geographic location.
After these steps have been completed, the pond’s layout and construction can begin. In order to protect your investment, I recommend that the landowner receive professional assistance with the design and construction phases. Qualified professionals will ensure that the pond is built correctly and will minimize any future headaches and costs associated with poor construction. The NRCS office can supply you with a contact list for qualified professionals in your area.
The layout of the pond, especially recreational ponds, should take advantage the surrounding landscape features. When clearing try to minimize the removal of trees along the pond’s edges, and try to make the cleared edges irregular as opposed to straight lines. A pond with nooks and edges is more aesthetically pleasing than a rectangular shaped pond.
Construction of the dam and installation of the water control devices are most often the costliest steps in the pond’s construction. Proper dam construction is essential for maintaining a pond. The dam should be constructed so as to prevent leakage and hold enough water to fill the pond. The soil used to construct the dam should be comprised primarily of clay soils and well compacted. Compaction of the soil will preventing water from seeping through the dam. Drain pipes and siphons are two types of water control devices commonly used to prevent water from over topping the dam in the event of heavy rains. Both systems work well to remove excess water from the pond, however a siphon system has some advantages because it is cheaper to install and easier to maintain. Some ponds also require the installation of a natural spillway, which serves as an additional overflow for excesses water in the event of a severe rain storm. It is important that all water control devices be it a drain pipe, siphon, or natural spillway be properly maintained. Once completed the dam should be grassed as soon as possible to prevent erosion which will weaken the dam.
Finally once the pond has filled with water, landowners can turn their sights toward pond management activities. The first activity many landowners will consider is stocking their pond with desired fish species. While a pond can sustain various stocking numbers and species of fish, the Georgia Department of Natural Resources (DNR) recommends the following per acre numbers and species for the initial stocking; 400 bluegill, 100 red eared sunfish “shell crackers”, 50 largemouth bass and an optional 50 channel catfish.
The Bluegill, shell-crackers, and channel catfish need to be stocked in the fall or early winter while the bass are added in May or June. The bass stocking is delayed so that the other species will have time to grow, which cuts down on predation from the bass. Applications for obtaining fish from the state are available at all Wildlife Resource Division offices or online at the DNR website. The DNR suggest that you submit applications in the late summer or early fall and applications received after December 31 will be filled the following fall.
Many landowners, especially us hardcore fishermen and women, may want to consider adding fertilizer and lime to their pond. A properly implemented fertilizer/liming program can increase the carrying capacity of a pond from 100 lbs to 300 lbs of fish per acre. But before you start adding fertilizer to a pond, I recommend that you seek the services of a professional pond manager. A pond manager will help you establish your objectives for the pond and create a plan that achieves them. You can find a list of pond managers on the GA DNR’s website.
In closing nobody said that building and maintaining a pond would be easy but like many of our grandfathers told us “anything worth doing is worth doing right” holds as true for pond construction as for many of life’s scenarios. Once your pond is complete and a fish is on the line you can take comfort in the fact that you have created an investment that you, your family, friends, and the local wildlife can enjoy. Now just where did I place my fishing pole?
Remember to do your research before undertaking your pond building project. For additional information, stop by your local NRCS office and pick up a copy of the USDA’s Agriculture Handbook Number 590; “Ponds – Planning, Design, and Construction”.


By: Jesse Johnson, Southern Land Exchange


Jesse is a licensed real estate agent with Southern Land Exchange and a registered forester. Please visit our website, http://www.southernlandexchange.com/ for more information on Jesse.

Tuesday, November 3, 2009

Southern Land Exchange, Mattco Land Brokers attend North America’s Premier Farm Show











Southern Land Exchange attended the Sunbelt Ag Expo last week, where we met prospects from Georgia, Florida, and Alabama. “The agricultural trade show, based in Moultrie, Ga., annually features more than 1,200 exhibitors showcasing the latest in farming technology. The Expo facilities include some 100 acres of exhibit space along with a 600-acre working research farm.”* We shared an information booth with our friends at Mattco Land Brokers who are located in Moultrie. Like Southern Land Exchange, their company is also participating with Cabela’s Trophy Properties. The Expo afforded us the opportunity to promote our listings and our brokerage services to a large number of landowners and buyers. Our presence at this popular event is just one way that we continue to take an active approach to land sales despite the sluggish real estate market.


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Monday, July 20, 2009

Georgia's Squirrel Season | August 15th - February 28th

Georgia's squirrel season is approaching. It begins August 15th until February 28th. The limit is 12 per day.

As Emory Josey points out,

Hunters don’t have much to do from the end of turkey season until the fall seasons come in. Squirrel hunting takes up the slack and offers some opportunities earlier than the most species. Aug. 15 opens the squirrel season with a bag limit of 12 bushy-tails and allows hunters to wring out the kinks from a long summer layoff.

There is a reason for the early season and the liberal limits. Squirrels are extremely prolific and populations are usually large. Add to that the fact that squirrels are quite often unwanted pests and you have a blueprint for early hunting.
And according to LakefrontHartwell.com,

Georgia’s Wildlife Management Areas offer more than 1 million acres of hunting opportunity for only $19 a year, and squirrel hunting is allowed on WMAs at specified times during the statewide squirrel season. Hunters are advised to check the hunting regulations for specific WMAs and dates.


Both the gray and fox squirrel can be found throughout Georgia. The gray squirrel, abundant in both rural and urban areas is the most common species. Though mostly associated with hardwood forests, grays also can be found in mixed pine/hardwood forests. Predominantly gray, with white under parts, gray squirrels appear more slender-bodied than fox squirrels, weighing anywhere from 12 oz. to 1½ pounds.

Checkout this informative and entertaining video of an Ohio squirrel hunt:



Photo by: Ella Mullins

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Tuesday, July 14, 2009

Identifying Whitetail Calls and Communications


Whitetail deer communicate with scent, various vocalizations, and body language. The trick is to know how to interpret these sounds and body language to help you in your quest for that trophy Whitetail.

The off season is a great time to brush up on your knowledge, and a great time to practice imitating some calls and understanding body language so that by Fall you'll be a master.

Whitetail Calls and Communication:

This information is from the Outdoor Adventures Network:


Non Aggressive Deer Calls

Contact Calls :
This sound is a doe's way of locating other deer of her family group . This call can be used all year long.


Doe Grunt :
Grunts are a doe's way of saying come here, also to call her fawns at feeding time. It is critical to keep the call soft as a loud grunt is too aggressive of a call.


Buck Bawl :
This sound's a lot like a calf bawl , but it is a series of buck bleats. This signals the bucks desire for company.


Sparring :
This is a non aggressive and social behavior that all bucks do after shedding their velvet. This is when the bucks learn who can whip the other. This process does not prevent serious fights later on during the rut.

Aggressive Deer Calls

Sniff
:
Deer make this sound to intimidate other deer and prevent fights. This call is often made by a rut- crazed buck when confronted with a rival. This sound can send smaller buck running from the area.


Wheeze
Another rut crazed Bucks sound to intimidate other deer and prevent fights when confronted with a rival. This sound can also send smaller buck running from the area.

Rattling

Aggressive Rattling
:
This is a short aggressive rattling sequence to possibly lure in less aggressive, but curious buck, as well as the local dominant whitetail buck of the area. To make this sound like a real fight sniffs, wheezes and grunts have also been thrown
in for added effect.

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Thursday, July 2, 2009

Take Photos to Preserve Your Hunting Memories

By Stan Sheram, Photographer

The preparation, the rifle, the bow, the special ammunition, the camp, the fresh morning air, the hunt, the kill, the trophy... It's all about creating memories, and nothing captures those memories like a photograph.

If your hunting gear doesn't include a camera, you're missing an opportunity to capture the special moments that you've invested a lot of time and money to create. For about what it costs for a pair of hunting boots, you can buy a decent digital pocket camera. You'll wear out the boots, but the photos you take with that camera will last for generations.

How To Choose A Camera

The first question I'm often asked is, "What's the best camera?" I can't tell you that anymore than you can tell me the best rifle for target shooting. I can, however, give you some suggestions that will help you choose a good camera. Here are some considerations.

You wouldn't buy a no-name firearm from some guy named Sully who yells at you on television hawking his "AS SEEN ON TV" brand. So, don't buy a camera like that either. Buy a brand you've heard of: Nikon, Canon, Kodak and Olympus are four good brands.

You can spend as much on a camera as you did for your last 4WD truck, but it's not necessary to spend a fortune to get good photographs. Last week I saw a Nikon pocket digital camera at a local warehouse club store for $80. You've spent that much on gas going to a dove shoot and come home with a sore shoulder and no birds.

Don't get too excited about the megapixel thing. Almost any digital camera you buy today will be 6 or better megapixels and that will be adequate for your purpose. If it has more megapixels, great, but don't let that be the only determining factor.

Look for a camera that uses AA batteries. It's easy to carry spares and you can find them most anywhere. A deer stand isn't the best place to find an outlet to charge a special purpose battery made specifically for your camera.

Don't worry about all the special features; you won't use them anyway.

A good display on the back is helpful, especially if you are trying to view it in sunlight.

Many pocket cameras are weather/water resistant, a nice feature to have outdoors.

Check the telephoto zoom on the lens. Optical zoom is typically 3 to 5X; the higher the number the better. Digital Zoom is worthless.

Setting Up Your Subject

You'll only get one chance to photograph your trophy kill in the field, and it only takes some common sense and a couple of minutes to do it right.

Keep in mind that the animal is the focal point of the picture. Show the animal in a dignified manner by cleaning up excessive amounts of blood or rubbing a handful of dust on areas that might be a distraction. Move anything from the camera view that might distract from the primary subject. Position the animal as close to its natural lying position as possible. Try folding its front legs underneath to raise the head. A hunter shown in the photo should be behind the animal and close enough to touch it. Kneeling 5 feet behind a small buck won't make it look twice as big; it will just look like you're kneeling 5 feet behind a small buck. Check your clothes. Your hat turned backwards and a blood-smeared shirt hanging out of your pants makes you look like an idiot not a hunter. If you want to include your gun in the photo, make sure it's unloaded and not pointing at your head...the idiot thing again.

Tips On Lighting

Lighting is very important. Keep the sun behind you as much as possible. Available light (no flash) may give a more natural looking photograph, but shoot both with and without flash. Using flash in daylight can fill in shadows that can be a distraction. If your shot is made after sunset, flash is a must on subjects close to you. Note that the flash on a point-and-shoot camera is only effective at night for a short distance-typically 5-10 feet - important to keep in mind when you set up your shot. I always laugh when I see a stadium full of people with hundreds of flashes going off trying to photograph something a couple of hundred feet away. They've effectively illuminated the back of the person's head in front of them and ruined any chance at all of getting the shot. If you have a distant shot in a low light situation, turn off the flash. Most of today's cameras have an auto ISO feature that can automatically compensate for very low light and sometimes the effect is quite pleasing. I want to emphasize shooting with and without flash. If the subject is farther away than the effective flash range of your camera, you'll usually get a much better shot without the flash.

Tips On Composition

Composition is the one thing that can ruin an otherwise perfect shot. You can have a great camera, great subject, great background, perfect lighting and then spoil it all with poor composition. You can minimize this problem if you shoot several shots and shoot them from many different angles. Keeping your eye not just on the subject, but also on what you're about to capture in the background. Try a few shots from a low angle, eye level with the subject. Experiment with both close in and wide shots being careful that you're entire subject is in the frame. If you're unsure, shoot a wider shot, as you can always crop it later. Don't forget to try vertical shots as well. Many subjects will standout better when shot from a vertical perspective rather than the standard horizontal perspective. Snap a lot of shots. The great thing about digital photography is that, since there's no film, it doesn't cost anything if you don't print them. You can delete an unwanted shot but you'll probably never get another chance to shoot the same shot again.

The hunting experience isn't just about the hunt. Don't forget to capture the Cook stirring his secret recipe chili or Old Bo stretched out beside the fire. I'll let you decide whether Old Bo is a dog or one of your hunting buddies...or both. The only bad picture is the one you didn't take.

One more tip - you already know this but you just haven't done it yet - read the camera manual. If you're one of then that thinks manuals are for sissies, then at least read the "quick start" guide. If you can't do that, then please, please find the "Fully Automatic" setting (usually a green symbol on a dial), and set it there and shoot away. If you want to really go out on a limb, find the setting that turns the flash off for those distant low light shots. If the flash is set to "On" or "Automatic", and it fires, your camera thinks that the subject is less than 10 feet away and sets the exposure accordingly. You'll ruin an opportunity to shoot a beautiful sunset.

On your next outing, pack a camera with your gear. It will give you an opportunity to share your experience with others and preserve your memories for a lifetime.

Stan Sheram, retired banker, poor journalist and worse hunter, a pretty good photographer sometimes, and owner of ScenicImage.com.

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Monday, June 15, 2009

Trends In Land Management | Landscaping Can Lure Wildlife To Your Backyard


By Mark Bailey

Everyone enjoys watching wildlife. In fact, wildlife watching is one of the fastest growing outdoor activities in America. Having wildlife near our homes makes it possible to view many species from a window, so even the elderly and physically disabled can benefit. Interacting with and providing for native animals and plants seems to bring us a pleasure unlike any other e

xperience.

Habitat is the combination of food, water, shelter, and space arranged to meet the needs of wildlife. Given the urban sprawl that is occurring today, natural wildlife habitats increasingly are being altered or destroyed. Although many native wildlife species have declined, some adaptable species have actually benefited from habitat modifications in developed areas. And the good news is that many others can thrive near our homes with a little help from us.

No matter the size of your yard, you can landscape it to attract birds, butterflies, beneficial insects, and other small animals. Trees, shrubs, and other plants provide shelter and food for wildlife. You can even help determine which wildlife species will be attracted to your back yard based on the specific plants you use for food and cover. Nesting boxes, feeders, and watering sites can be added to improve the habitat.

Developing A Plan

Odds are, you already have some wildlife in your yard, but by making just a few changes, you can greatly enhance the habitat. Diversity in the landscape is essential for a diversity of wildlife. Some plants provide food but very little cover; others provide cover but little food. Productive and attractive wildlife habitat near people's homes is usually the result of careful planning and proper management. When considering your property, think not only of its two-dimensional area but of its vertical dimension as well, from the soil to the treetops.

This vertical area is composed of several zones. The tallest tree branches form the canopy, while smaller trees, shrubs and vines provide the under story vegetation. The groundcover layer has herbaceous plants, mushrooms, and lichens, while the leaf litter and soil support a variety of organisms. Different wildlife species live in each of these zones, so, even on a small piece of land, you can provide many habitats.

Trees and shrubs are the backbone of landscaping design. In addition to providing shelter, many tree and shrub species are sources of food for wildlife. Probably the best thing you can do to enhance wildlife habitat is to plant nursery-grown native trees and shrubs that once grew naturally in your area. (Never dig native plants from the wild). While exotic ornamental shrubs frequently used for landscaping will provide some benefit, most do not yield adequate food for native wildlife and therefore are not recommended.

In addition to the wildlife benefits native plants provide, they are adapted to your local climate, soil, and water conditions. Once established, they are virtually maintenance-free. Selection of the proper plant material can meet both your aesthetic needs and the food and shelter needs of wildlife. Remember that the habitat you create is going to be your habitat, too!

Backyard Habitat Plan

After these steps have been completed, to implement a backyard habitat plan, you must first identify all existing trees and shrubs on your property and evaluate them according to three criteria:

  1. The condition/location of plants.

  2. The degree of shade provided by the trees and shrubs.

  3. The value as a food source to wildlife.

Next, make a sketch of your yard, showing all trees, shrubs, buildings, utilities, and pathways. Don't rule out the option of removing some plants, particularly those exotic species that may be of little wildlife value. Once you know which plants you want to keep, star for plants that will work well with these species. On your sketch, denote the open areas that receive sunshine and the areas that are shaded most of the day. In addition, indicate low, wet areas and those that are usually dry. Make several copies of your sketch, and try drawing different layouts with plants indifferent areas. Add native trees, shrubs, wildflowers, and groundcover plants to your plan.

Unless you have a small yard, don't feel that you must implement your entire plan all at once. Your money and/or time may be limited, so do what you can, and consider it a work in progress.

Plant a variety of trees first. Evergreen species, for instance, provide year-round cover and shelter, while fruit and nut-bearing plants are important food sources. When choosing and placing trees, always consider the eventual size of the tree. Deciduous trees are a good choice for the south side of a house because they provide summer shade but will not completely block winter sun. Select plants that flower and bear fruit at different times of the year. Some shrubs that produce berries can provide food throughout the year. Trees with nuts and fruit can also provide seasonal foods.

Beneath the existing or recently planted trees, fill in with smaller shade-tolerant understory trees and shrubs. These will enhance the vertical structure that is characteristic of natural landscapes. Dogwood, redbud, and many other midstory trees are colorful in the spring when they flower, and they provide berries or seed for fall and winter forage.

Wildflowers add color to the yard and can be added at any stage to attract birds and butterflies. If you have space, consider converting a sunny part of your lot into a meadow for wildflowers and native grasses.

Meadows are mowed only once every year or two. A native wildflower garden can be fun to maintain and, at the same time, can provide important wildlife habitat.

Remember: Most wildlife species are not particularly attracted to well-manicured lawns. Animals are more likely to come out into the open for viewing when the boundary of the yard is designed and maintained as a retreat for them. Try to avoid straight lines and perfect symmetry.

Select at least one location for a permanent water source. Whether a birdbath or an excavated pond, the presence of water will be a magnet to wildlife. A backyard pond does not have to be large to be productive, and if you don't stock fish, you really don't need to worry about filtration. You can buy plastic pond liners at larger home supply stores.

Mark A. Bailey is a consulting biologist for Conservation Services Southeast; mbailey@ConservationSoutheast.com exploring options.

Tuesday, June 9, 2009

How to Keep Deer out of the Garden | Deer Repellant Ideas and Home Remedies


While deer can seem majestic and the thought of them may cue childhood memories of Bambi, but the reality is that deer and your garden do not mix.

So how do you keep deer out of your garden?

Here are the top remedies for repelling deer (click to skip down to details):

Plant Things Deer Hate

There are some species of plants that are a deterrent to deer because of their taste, texture or smell.

Flowers: marigolds, astilbe, morning glory, buttercup, foxglove, dahlia, Four O'Clock, flowering tobacco, larkspur, poppy, snapdragon, strawflower and vinca
Herbs: rosemary, lavender, and catmint
Shrubs: boxwood and forsythia
Trees: birch, crape myrtle, maple, and spruce
Sidenote-- Deer Love: azaleas, rhododendrons, daylilies, hostas, roses, Columbine, geranium, impatiens, pansies, redbud, and tulips. Many vegetables including beans, potatoes and tomatoes attract deer too.

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Use Soap and Fabric Softener Sheets

Deer are deterred by unnatural, perfume smells. Hang fabric softener sheets on the trees around your garden. You can also sprinkle perfumed soap shavings in your garden. Replace the softener sheets and soap after heavy rain.

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Use Netting

Most hardware stores sell sturdy plastic netting that is specially woven to keep deer from getting through to your vegetables. Before you install the netting, drive sturdy stakes or poles into the ground around the perimeter of your garden. Space them two feet apart and attach the netting to the stakes to make a netted fence. The netted fence should be at least seven feet high to discourage deer from jumping over.

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Use Organic Repellents

Spraying an area around your garden with a special organic odor-based repellent will also act as a deterrent for deer. Spray on bushes, grass, and trees close to the garden. The lasting of the odor varies, and many organic repellents need reapplication after heavy rain. You can get several of these at garden/hardware stores.

You can also create your own repellents with chili powder, cayenne pepper and hot peppers. Try chopping some peppers and blending them in a blender and add water, let the solution stand overnight, then strain it through cheesecloth and empty into a spray bottle.

Baby powder can also be sprinkled on plants as a perfumed repellent. Try cracking a few eggs and mix with 2 quarts of water and apply the solution to plants. The eggs will decompose and deer won't like the smell.

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Noise and Lights

Noise and lights will scare off unsuspecting deer. You can hang reflective material like pie plates or old CDs. If your area is void of any wind this method might not be as effective. Another noise suggestion would be to hang a group of wind chimes or use a motion activated noise maker.

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Sprinklers

Installing sprinklers that are timed to turn on at twilight and early morning will startle deer. Some companies manufacture motion sensitive sprinkler systems that are specifically designed for deer. The sprinklers are activated as soon as movement is detected.

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Fencing

If you have tried everything and the deer seem to be winning the battle, install an eight-foot high wire mesh fence around your garden. Although this is the most expensive way to protect your garden from deer, it is the most durable. This fence will last for years and will keep determined deer away from your garden.

Utilizing these techniques may take a little trial and error, but you are sure to find something to work to keep your garden deer free and safe from being eaten.

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** Image credit: Millet

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