Seus Land Exchange Inc.

The preparation, the rifle, the bow, the special ammunition, the camp, the fresh morning air, the hunt, the kill, the trophy... It's all about creating memories, and nothing captures those memories like a photograph.

If your hunting gear doesn't include a camera, you're missing an opportunity to capture the special moments that you've invested a lot of time and money to create. For about what it costs for a pair of hunting boots, you can buy a decent digital pocket camera. You'll wear out the boots, but the photos you take with that camera will last for generations.

The first question I'm often asked is, "What's the best camera?" I can't tell you that anymore than you can tell me the best rifle for target shooting. I can, however, give you some suggestions that will help you choose a good camera. Here are some considerations.

You wouldn't buy a no-name firearm from some guy named Sully who yells at you on television hawking his "AS SEEN ON TV" brand. So, don't buy a camera like that either. Buy a brand you've heard of: Nikon, Canon, Kodak and Olympus are four good brands.

You can spend as much on a camera as you did for your last 4WD truck, but it's not necessary to spend a fortune to get good photographs. Last week I saw a Nikon pocket digital camera at a local warehouse club store for $80. You've spent that much on gas going to a dove shoot and come home with a sore shoulder and no birds.

Don't get too excited about the megapixel thing. Almost any digital camera you buy today will be 6 or better megapixels and that will be adequate for your purpose. If it has more megapixels, great, but don't let that be the only determining factor.

Look for a camera that uses AA batteries. It's easy to carry spares and you can find them most anywhere. A deer stand isn't the best place to find an outlet to charge a special purpose battery made specifically for your camera.

Don't worry about all the special features; you won't use them anyway.

A good display on the back is helpful, especially if you are trying to view it in sunlight.

Many pocket cameras are weather/water resistant, a nice feature to have outdoors.

Check the telephoto zoom on the lens. Optical zoom is typically 3 to 5X; the higher the number the better. Digital Zoom is worthless.

You'll only get one chance to photograph your trophy kill in the field, and it only takes some common sense and a couple of minutes to do it right.

Keep in mind that the animal is the focal point of the picture. Show the animal in a dignified manner by cleaning up excessive amounts of blood or rubbing a handful of dust on areas that might be a distraction. Move anything from the camera view that might distract from the primary subject. Position the animal as close to its natural lying position as possible. Try folding its front legs underneath to raise the head. A hunter shown in the photo should be behind the animal and close enough to touch it. Kneeling 5 feet behind a small buck won't make it look twice as big; it will just look like you're kneeling 5 feet behind a small buck. Check your clothes. Your hat turned backwards and a blood-smeared shirt hanging out of your pants makes you look like an idiot not a hunter. If you want to include your gun in the photo, make sure it's unloaded and not pointing at your head...the idiot thing again.

Lighting is very important. Keep the sun behind you as much as possible. Available light (no flash) may give a more natural looking photograph, but shoot both with and without flash. Using flash in daylight can fill in shadows that can be a distraction. If your shot is made after sunset, flash is a must on subjects close to you. Note that the flash on a point-and-shoot camera is only effective at night for a short distance-typically 5-10 feet - important to keep in mind when you set up your shot. I always laugh when I see a stadium full of people with hundreds of flashes going off trying to photograph something a couple of hundred feet away. They've effectively illuminated the back of the person's head in front of them and ruined any chance at all of getting the shot. If you have a distant shot in a low light situation, turn off the flash. Most of today's cameras have an auto ISO feature that can automatically compensate for very low light and sometimes the effect is quite pleasing. I want to emphasize shooting with and without flash. If the subject is farther away than the effective flash range of your camera, you'll usually get a much better shot without the flash.

Composition is the one thing that can ruin an otherwise perfect shot. You can have a great camera, great subject, great background, perfect lighting and then spoil it all with poor composition. You can minimize this problem if you shoot several shots and shoot them from many different angles. Keeping your eye not just on the subject, but also on what you're about to capture in the background. Try a few shots from a low angle, eye level with the subject. Experiment with both close in and wide shots being careful that you're entire subject is in the frame. If you're unsure, shoot a wider shot, as you can always crop it later. Don't forget to try vertical shots as well. Many subjects will standout better when shot from a vertical perspective rather than the standard horizontal perspective. Snap a lot of shots. The great thing about digital photography is that, since there's no film, it doesn't cost anything if you don't print them. You can delete an unwanted shot but you'll probably never get another chance to shoot the same shot again.

The hunting experience isn't just about the hunt. Don't forget to capture the Cook stirring his secret recipe chili or Old Bo stretched out beside the fire. I'll let you decide whether Old Bo is a dog or one of your hunting buddies...or both. The only bad picture is the one you didn't take.

One more tip - you already know this but you just haven't done it yet - read the camera manual. If you're one of then that thinks manuals are for sissies, then at least read the "quick start" guide. If you can't do that, then please, please find the "Fully Automatic" setting (usually a green symbol on a dial), and set it there and shoot away. If you want to really go out on a limb, find the setting that turns the flash off for those distant low light shots. If the flash is set to "On" or "Automatic", and it fires, your camera thinks that the subject is less than 10 feet away and sets the exposure accordingly. You'll ruin an opportunity to shoot a beautiful sunset.

On your next outing, pack a camera with your gear. It will give you an opportunity to share your experience with others and preserve your memories for a lifetime.

Stan Sheram, retired banker, poor journalist and worse hunter, a pretty good photographer sometimes, and owner of ScenicImage.com.

Labels: Georgia hunting, outdoor digital photography, photography

By Mark Bailey

Everyone enjoys watching wildlife. In fact, wildlife watching is one of the fastest growing outdoor activities in America. Having wildlife near our homes makes it possible to view many species from a window, so even the elderly and physically disabled can benefit. Interacting with and providing for native animals and plants seems to bring us a pleasure unlike any other e

xperience.

Habitat is the combination of food, water, shelter, and space arranged to meet the needs of wildlife. Given the urban sprawl that is occurring today, natural wildlife habitats increasingly are being altered or destroyed. Although many native wildlife species have declined, some adaptable species have actually benefited from habitat modifications in developed areas. And the good news is that many others can thrive near our homes with a little help from us.

No matter the size of your yard, you can landscape it to attract birds, butterflies, beneficial insects, and other small animals. Trees, shrubs, and other plants provide shelter and food for wildlife. You can even help determine which wildlife species will be attracted to your back yard based on the specific plants you use for food and cover. Nesting boxes, feeders, and watering sites can be added to improve the habitat.

Odds are, you already have some wildlife in your yard, but by making just a few changes, you can greatly enhance the habitat. Diversity in the landscape is essential for a diversity of wildlife. Some plants provide food but very little cover; others provide cover but little food. Productive and attractive wildlife habitat near people's homes is usually the result of careful planning and proper management. When considering your property, think not only of its two-dimensional area but of its vertical dimension as well, from the soil to the treetops.

This vertical area is composed of several zones. The tallest tree branches form the canopy, while smaller trees, shrubs and vines provide the under story vegetation. The groundcover layer has herbaceous plants, mushrooms, and lichens, while the leaf litter and soil support a variety of organisms. Different wildlife species live in each of these zones, so, even on a small piece of land, you can provide many habitats.

Trees and shrubs are the backbone of landscaping design. In addition to providing shelter, many tree and shrub species are sources of food for wildlife. Probably the best thing you can do to enhance wildlife habitat is to plant nursery-grown native trees and shrubs that once grew naturally in your area. (Never dig native plants from the wild). While exotic ornamental shrubs frequently used for landscaping will provide some benefit, most do not yield adequate food for native wildlife and therefore are not recommended.

In addition to the wildlife benefits native plants provide, they are adapted to your local climate, soil, and water conditions. Once established, they are virtually maintenance-free. Selection of the proper plant material can meet both your aesthetic needs and the food and shelter needs of wildlife. Remember that the habitat you create is going to be your habitat, too!

After these steps have been completed, to implement a backyard habitat plan, you must first identify all existing trees and shrubs on your property and evaluate them according to three criteria:

1. The condition/location of plants.


2. The degree of shade provided by the trees and shrubs.


3. The value as a food source to wildlife.

Next, make a sketch of your yard, showing all trees, shrubs, buildings, utilities, and pathways. Don't rule out the option of removing some plants, particularly those exotic species that may be of little wildlife value. Once you know which plants you want to keep, star for plants that will work well with these species. On your sketch, denote the open areas that receive sunshine and the areas that are shaded most of the day. In addition, indicate low, wet areas and those that are usually dry. Make several copies of your sketch, and try drawing different layouts with plants indifferent areas. Add native trees, shrubs, wildflowers, and groundcover plants to your plan.

Unless you have a small yard, don't feel that you must implement your entire plan all at once. Your money and/or time may be limited, so do what you can, and consider it a work in progress.

Plant a variety of trees first. Evergreen species, for instance, provide year-round cover and shelter, while fruit and nut-bearing plants are important food sources. When choosing and placing trees, always consider the eventual size of the tree. Deciduous trees are a good choice for the south side of a house because they provide summer shade but will not completely block winter sun. Select plants that flower and bear fruit at different times of the year. Some shrubs that produce berries can provide food throughout the year. Trees with nuts and fruit can also provide seasonal foods.

Beneath the existing or recently planted trees, fill in with smaller shade-tolerant understory trees and shrubs. These will enhance the vertical structure that is characteristic of natural landscapes. Dogwood, redbud, and many other midstory trees are colorful in the spring when they flower, and they provide berries or seed for fall and winter forage.

Wildflowers add color to the yard and can be added at any stage to attract birds and butterflies. If you have space, consider converting a sunny part of your lot into a meadow for wildflowers and native grasses.

Meadows are mowed only once every year or two. A native wildflower garden can be fun to maintain and, at the same time, can provide important wildlife habitat.

Remember: Most wildlife species are not particularly attracted to well-manicured lawns. Animals are more likely to come out into the open for viewing when the boundary of the yard is designed and maintained as a retreat for them. Try to avoid straight lines and perfect symmetry.

Select at least one location for a permanent water source. Whether a birdbath or an excavated pond, the presence of water will be a magnet to wildlife. A backyard pond does not have to be large to be productive, and if you don't stock fish, you really don't need to worry about filtration. You can buy plastic pond liners at larger home supply stores.

Mark A. Bailey is a consulting biologist for Conservation Services Southeast; mbailey@ConservationSoutheast.com exploring options.

While deer can seem majestic and the thought of them may cue childhood memories of Bambi, but the reality is that deer and your garden do not mix.

So how do you keep deer out of your garden?

Here are the top remedies for repelling deer (click to skip down to details):

• Plant Things Deer Hate


• Use Soap and Fabric Softener Sheets


• Use Netting


• Use Organic Repellents


• Noise and Lights


• Sprinklers


• Fencing

Plant Things Deer Hate

There are some species of plants that are a deterrent to deer because of their taste, texture or smell.

Flowers: marigolds, astilbe, morning glory, buttercup, foxglove, dahlia, Four O'Clock, flowering tobacco, larkspur, poppy, snapdragon, strawflower and vinca
Herbs: rosemary, lavender, and catmint
Shrubs: boxwood and forsythia
Trees: birch, crape myrtle, maple, and spruce
Sidenote-- Deer Love: azaleas, rhododendrons, daylilies, hostas, roses, Columbine, geranium, impatiens, pansies, redbud, and tulips. Many vegetables including beans, potatoes and tomatoes attract deer too.

Back to List

Use Soap and Fabric Softener Sheets

Deer are deterred by unnatural, perfume smells. Hang fabric softener sheets on the trees around your garden. You can also sprinkle perfumed soap shavings in your garden. Replace the softener sheets and soap after heavy rain.

Use Netting

Most hardware stores sell sturdy plastic netting that is specially woven to keep deer from getting through to your vegetables. Before you install the netting, drive sturdy stakes or poles into the ground around the perimeter of your garden. Space them two feet apart and attach the netting to the stakes to make a netted fence. The netted fence should be at least seven feet high to discourage deer from jumping over.

Use Organic Repellents

Spraying an area around your garden with a special organic odor-based repellent will also act as a deterrent for deer. Spray on bushes, grass, and trees close to the garden. The lasting of the odor varies, and many organic repellents need reapplication after heavy rain. You can get several of these at garden/hardware stores.

You can also create your own repellents with chili powder, cayenne pepper and hot peppers. Try chopping some peppers and blending them in a blender and add water, let the solution stand overnight, then strain it through cheesecloth and empty into a spray bottle.

Baby powder can also be sprinkled on plants as a perfumed repellent. Try cracking a few eggs and mix with 2 quarts of water and apply the solution to plants. The eggs will decompose and deer won't like the smell.

Noise and Lights

Noise and lights will scare off unsuspecting deer. You can hang reflective material like pie plates or old CDs. If your area is void of any wind this method might not be as effective. Another noise suggestion would be to hang a group of wind chimes or use a motion activated noise maker.

Sprinklers

Installing sprinklers that are timed to turn on at twilight and early morning will startle deer. Some companies manufacture motion sensitive sprinkler systems that are specifically designed for deer. The sprinklers are activated as soon as movement is detected.

Fencing

If you have tried everything and the deer seem to be winning the battle, install an eight-foot high wire mesh fence around your garden. Although this is the most expensive way to protect your garden from deer, it is the most durable. This fence will last for years and will keep determined deer away from your garden.

Utilizing these techniques may take a little trial and error, but you are sure to find something to work to keep your garden deer free and safe from being eaten.

Labels: deer repellant, garden pest remedies, gardening, keep deer out of the garden, vegetable gardens

Labels: bass fishing, bassmaster, bassmaster elite series, fishing, lake amistad

Hunting for shed antlers can shed light on the deer you hunt.

From mid-January through February bucks will be shedding their antlers.  Analyzing those sheds will allow you to understand much that will improve your hunting success.

While the prize of the hunt is a benefit, you can also benefit from understanding the quality of bucks that made it through the end of hunting season, the number of bucks that were in the area, and the specific areas that the bucks choose to hang out in.

Tips for hunting shed deer antlers:

• You must search for deer sheds in the deer's wintering grounds. It's obviously important to correlate the time of season when you intend to hunt with the places where bucks are during the time they shed their antlers.

• Using dogs to help find shed antlers can be a great idea

• The timing of your hunting is important.

Labels: antler sheds, deer hunting, deer hunting in Georgia, hunting for antler sheds

Curtis Seltzer wrote a fantastic article over at LandThink about how to submit a written offer based on:

• The value you determined the seller's property is worth to you
  
• The appraisal value
  
• The market
  
• The tax-assessed value
  

Seltzer maps out your options as follows:

1. Play it straight

Offer less than you believe the land is worth with hopes that you can negotiate a deal up to what the land is worth to you. Just make sure you justify your price based on your research.

2. Roll High

Offer over the seller's asking price BUT:

• Only offer a $10,000 down payment and insist on seller-financing.
• Make the offer contingent on a three-month study of the property's "assets and liabilities," which the results have to be acceptable to you. If they are unacceptable, you can void the contract and offer without penalty.
• Seller has to pay your closing costs.

As Seltzer puts it, "Your plan from the beginning has been to tie up the seller with your bogus contingency, string him out for three months and soften him for your hardball offer."

3. Take-it-or-Leave-it

Offer the price you are willing to pay with no contingencies and a reasonable down payment.  Explain how your research got you to your price, and make it known you aren't going up.

4. Make a Deal

Seltzer had a great idea in realizing the seller's attachment to his land. Say a seller values his 500 acres for hunting, but needs the cash for retirement. Seltzer proposes offering a 10 year, no cost hunting lease to the seller as part of a offer you're willing to pay.  The seller doesn't get as much money as he wants for the land, but he gets what he wants in the property, the ability to still hunt on the land.

It's a great article that gives insights into a land buyer and a land seller's point of view.

Related posts:

How to Buy Land for Sale

Questions to Ask When Buying Land

Buying Land v. Buying Stocks

Labels: buying land, Buying land in today's economy, land for sale, tips for buying land for sale

Labels: bird dog, gun dog, hunting dog, hunting dog breeds, hunting with dogs