Farm Land with Blueberry and Blackberry Picking in the South

This time of year is great for spending outside with friends and family. Picking your own fruits and vegetables from a near-by farm is a great family fun activity. It is also an economical way to find fresh fruit and vegetables, and a perfect way to support your local growers. In the south, strawberry season is wrapping up while blackberry and blueberry season is just getting underway. Each farm is unique so it is imperative to do your research before beginning your family outing. You should call the farm to check their hours and seasons before traveling.

Pickyourown.org is a site that has listings of pick-your-own farms throughout the United States.

A few notable farms that have berry picking around Atlanta and North Georgia are as follows:

Oconee County:

Washington Farms
5691 Hog Mountain Road (Hwy.53)
Watkinsville, GA 30677
Phone: (706) 769-0627
Call for availability!

Barrow County:

U-Pick Blueberries
Wider, GA.
Phone: 770-867-3420
Open: Tuesday through Sunday, call for hours, directions and availability. Bring your own take-home containers.

Carroll County:

Garmon Family Farm
337 Old Four Notch Road, Whitesburg, GA 30185
Phone: 770-214-8531
Email: garmonfamilyfarm@earthlink.net.

Taylor Blueberry Farm
195 Clem Lowell Road, Carrollton, GA
Phone: 770-832-6857
Open: 7 am to 7 pm. Mondays-Saturdays (call to be sure)

Jackson County:

DJA Farms
106 Magnum Bridge Road, Maysville, GA
Phone: 706-335-2132

I'm sure there are more, so if you know of any others please leave a comment!

New Sales Agents Join Southern Land Exchange

In an effort to “expand our territory”, we are thrilled to introduce 2 of our newest agents to the Southern Land Exchange team, Brent Blackmon and Phillip Chastain.

Brent Blackmon will be representing Southern Land Exchange in Alabama. Brent grew up in South Alabama hunting and fishing with his father. Through these experiences, he developed a passion for the outdoors and gained a great knowledge about all kinds of wildlife. He currently owns and operates Crow Creek Hunting Preserve where he utilizes this knowledge and skill to create a thriving habitat for wildlife. He has had experience with all facets of timber and land management as well. This experience includes procurement, pond management, prescribed burning, developing road networks, and creating food plots. Brent has been in the real estate business for twelve years. He understands the needs and wants of buyers and sellers. Whether you want to sell your land or find the perfect recreational property, Brent is the authentic outdoor realtor!

Phillip Chastain earned an Agricultural Engineering degree from the University of Georgia in 1993. He has been a registered land surveyor, owning his own company, for the past ten years. This experience and Phillip’s network of contacts in the land business led to his entering the land brokerage arena. As a sales agent for Southern Land Exchange, Phillip will work diligently for buyers and sellers to make their real estate goals and dreams a reality.

Summer Food Crops that are Great for White-tailed Deer Nutrition

This Video is great for learning food plot tips and techniques that will get you the most out of your planting.




White-tailed Deer Nutrition: Summer Food for Food Plots

By Dr. Keith Causey

In many areas of the South, natural forage falls short in providing whitetails their minimum energy and protein needs. Although we have suggested using raw, whole soybeans in free-choice feeders as an effective means of supplementing our inadequate natural forage, cultivated food plots continue to remain very important.

While many hunters and landowners plant high-quality winter foods to supplement the diets of their deer, many of these same people often ignore the nutritional needs of deer during the late winter, spring and summer months. Generally, late winter and late summer are periods of stress when fewer nutrients are available for southern deer. As a consequence, this “off-season” period is a time of special needs. This is the time of antler growth for the bucks, and for the does, the time of gestation, fawning and lactation. This crucial time in the annual rhythm of the white-tail should not be overlooked or ignored if quality deer management is the objective.

Keeping in mind that late freezes, droughts, diseases, insect pests, and especially competition from weeds and grasses make it very difficult to produce good warm-season crops for deer, I offer the following suggestions for some of my favorites.

1. Soybeans
There is probably no better warm season forage to plant for deer than soybeans. Soybean foliage or leaves are high in protein, and the soybean seed is extremely high in protein and in digestible energy. Soybean plants are browsed heavily by deer from sprouting through seed production. And herein lies the problem with this premium warm-season forage. In many areas deer populations are so high that soybean plants are often killed by very early overgrazing. Unless deer density in the area to be planted is low to moderate, large plots (of 5 to 10 acres) may be necessary, and they may need to be protected with temporary high-voltage electric fencing to allow the crop to become established.

There are many varieties of soybeans to choose from, but it is best to select a late-maturing variety or a variety bred for forage production. You would do well to consult with your local county extension agent or with forage specialists at land-grant universities for information on varieties for your area.

Planting dates vary from late April to mid-June, depending on the bean variety and planting location. Soil tests should be conducted to determine lime and fertilization rates. Plant soybeans on a well-prepared, firm seedbed. Seeding rates vary between 35 to 70 pounds per acre, and the seed may be broadcast or planted in rows. A planting depth of about one inch is recommended, and inoculation of the seeds with proper bacteria is also recommended.

2. Cowpeas
Cowpeas are annual legumes, like soybeans, and produce high protein forage during the warm season. It has been our experience that cowpeas are not often browsed by deer until they reach a certain stage of maturity. However, when this stage is reached, deer may direct their attention to these plantings and eliminate them in a matter of a week or so. Obviously, this could defeat the purpose of supplying high-quality forage throughout the summer season. As with soybeans, there are many varieties of cowpeas. We have used Iron-clay mostly, but Catjang, Wilcox and Tory are also good varieties.

Recommended planting dates range from about May 1 to July 1. Soil tests should be conducted for proper liming and fertilization rates. Usually, 100 pounds per acre of 0-20-20 fertilizer is adequate. Cowpeas should be broadcast at a rate of 50 to 70 pounds per acre on a firm seedbed and covered to a depth of about one inch. Inoculation is recommended. Temporary electric fencing around the crop may also be required.

3. American jointvetch (Aeschynomene)
American jointvetch is a warm-season tropical legume that is highly palatable to white-tailed deer. American jointvetch plantings can produce large quantities of high-quality forage during summer months. I really like this plant, but like many others it has its drawbacks. Seed cost is high, and successful establishment of jointvetch plots often requires intensive cultivation and herbicide use. Germination and early growth is slow. The stand may fail or, if successful, prove to be quite expensive.

Jointvetch is tolerant of wet soils but is not suited to very sandy soils. Liming and fertilization rates should be determined by soil testing. In the absence of a soil test, 300 pounds per acre of 0-10-20 fertilizer is recommended. Planting dates vary from the first of March to the first of June. Care should be taken to avoid frost, but jointvetch should be planted as early as possible to ensure that the seeds mature before the first frost of the fall season. Jointvetch should be broadcast at about 15 pounds per acre on a well-disked, firm seedbed and lightly covered with a drag or harrow.

4. Alyceclover
Alyceclover is a good, warm-season clover for deer. This plant grows well under a variety of soil conditions and can withstand moderate drought in the spring or summer. Like other legumes previously discussed, alyceclover is high in protein. It may also withstand heavier grazing than soybeans or cowpeas. Alyceclover must be replanted each year.

Alyceclover plots should be limed and fertilized according to soil tests. Generally, 200 to 300 pounds of 0-17-17 fertilizer per acre is adequate. Alyceclover should be planted between May 1 and July 1 at a broadcast rate of 20 to 25 pounds per acre. It should be planted on a well-prepared seedbed and lightly covered using a drag or harrow. The seed should be inoculated.

5. Corn
Corn is planted throughout the South for white- tailed deer, and whole kernel corn is an excellent energy source for deer from early fall through winter. In areas where mast producing hardwoods are in short supply, or where there are none at all, corn can be very important to deer for building stores of winter fat. Corn is a high energy food but a food low in protein. Corn alone does not come close to satisfying the minimum year-round protein needs of deer for maximum body and antler growth.

Many varieties of field corn are suitable to plant for deer. So again, you should let your particular soil and weather conditions influence this decision and choose a variety suited to your area and type of soil. Corn plots should be soil tested for precise liming and fertilization rates. Usually, 300 to 400 pounds per acre of 17-17-17 fertilizer is adequate at planting. Planting dates ideally are mid-March to mid- April for most varieties. Corn may be broadcast at 12 to 15 pounds per acre and covered about one inch. Better results are obtained, however, by planting in rows 36 inches apart and cultivating the rows for weed and grass control. This also allows for side-dressing with ammonium nitrate when the corn plants are about knee-high. Side-dressing is done by dropping a line of ammonium nitrate about the diameter of a pencil along the entire corn row. An excellent companion crop to plant with corn is velvet beans. The beans are planted among the corn stalks or rows and the bean vines will climb up the corn stalks as they grow. The combination of corn and velvet beans results in a high-quality summer forage from the beans while the high-energy corn seeds are being produced for the fall and winter. The corn stalks provide protection for the young bean plants and also provide a means for the terminal buds to grow out of reach of browsing deer.

Because of reduced production, velvet beans have been in short supply recently and have become quite expensive as a consequence. Still, corn and velvet beans are a really good combination summer and fall deer forage and seed crop.

Obviously, many warm-season crops are available as deer plantings, but of the legumes, the bean family and clovers remain the best because of their protein and energy content. The crops discussed here are some that I have personally used with varying success in the past. Currently, I plan to devote more attention to the corn/velvet bean combination on my personal property. Whatever one may choose to plant as a deer nutritional supplement in the warm season in the South, be prepared to be completely engaged in the many requirements that go into the making of a successful crop. It can be challenging, but the results can also bring unequaled rewards.

This article first appeared in Wildlife Trends' April 2001 issue. It is by Dr. Keith Causey.

Dr. Keith Causey is a professional Wildlife Scientist with over 35 years of experience in wildlife research and management. Dr. Causey specializes in white-tailed deer.

Posting Your Property

By: Dr. Neil A. Waer


A very important but often overlooked land management practice is to post your property. Trespassing and the related poaching that often accompany it sometimes can negate successful outcomes from other management efforts. We all know how expensive it can be to mange for wildlife. Not only can one spend many dollars for each deer, turkey, or quail produced, but time (often years) is invested for each individual animal also. Just think of the heartache associated with feeding and saving your best bucks each year just to have trespassers poach them from you because you spent no, or marginal, effort to prevent it.

In some states the actual placement of signs along the borders of your property is not necessary to legally protect against trespassing. However, I believe securing your boundaries is critical. You see, one of the most important things to managing wildlife has nothing to do with wildlife at all. It’s managing people! And in this case, it’s doing your best to keep unintentional and often even deliberate trespassers off of your land. The purpose of this article is to encourage all of us who have put this chore off for too long to get out there and do it!

So what can be done to help reduce or minimize potential trespass problems? The answer is to make a very clear and visible proclamation that you are serious about unlawful trespass. Over the years I have had numerous “run-ins” with trespassers/poachers who almost always have the same response. They usually say “I thought it was ok to hunt/fish here ‘cause I didn’t see any signs” or “I didn’t know it wasn’t ok to hunt/fish here.” Well, I think we should all make a strong effort to that say it isn’t ok to hunt/fish on our land without permission by doing a thorough and professional job of posting our boundaries.

There are three things one needs to know to do a good job of posting your boundaries:

1. What to use
2. How to hang it
3. How far apart to hang it

1. So what type of sign should you use?
Probably the most common sign seen hanging is a thin, inexpensive paper-type sign available at most hardware stores, home centers, and farmer’s Co-ops. These signs sell for about $0.50 to $1.00 and usually are seen wrapped around and nailed to trees and fence posts or placed on wooden backer boards. Most look weathered and paled by the end of the first hunting season. These types of signs tear and fall off easily.

The second most common choice, and a better one, seems to be a rigid plastic or corrugated plastic sign available at the same types of stores that usually sells for about $1 to $2. While these types of signs do last longer, my experience has been that they eventually fade or crack with increasing sun exposure.

The best and most professional-looking sign I have found is a heavy gauge aluminum sign. These high quality signs can be purchased from your local sign company, over the Internet, or by mail order. I have had a very satisfactory experience mail ordering from Voss Signs, LLC (800- 473-0698). I have purchased 0.032-gauge aluminum signs for under $4, delivered. Bulk orders from most companies receive a discount. This is a very thick and rigid sign that will not bend in the wind and does not need a backer board. While signs can be ordered in several colors, my preference is an orange sign with the message seen in the first photo above. I believe orange is more visible in the woods than yellow or another color. Additionally, I believe the message on the sign pictured in the first photo is more inclusive and specific than just the words “No Hunting” or “ No Trespassing.” I don’t want to accidentally give trespassers a loophole. Most sign companies also will allow customized messages.

2. So how should you hang your signs?
Because I want to be as professional as possible to communicate a clear and serious message, I try to neatly hang all of my signs at about the same height (4 feet above the ground) in one of three ways. If fences are already present along the property boundary, I screw signs directly to the fence posts using stainless steel screws.

If no posts are available and I need a very professional look in highly visible or vulnerable areas (such as along road frontages), I bolt them to 1 5/8” x 5’, 18-gauge galvanized pipes used for chain link fence posts. These pieces of pipe are readily available at home centers for about $4 apiece. I drill all the way though the pipe starting about 2 inches down from the top and use small stainless steel bolts with washers to attach the sign at the top and bottom of the sign (most aluminum signs come pre-drilled). Before you attach the sign, a fence-post driver can be used to drive the post in the ground. To finish it off, a post cap (about $0.50) can be added to keep rainwater from collecting in the pipe and rusting it prematurely. While it may seem like overkill, the result is a very professional-looking job that communicates the right message.

The other and most common way to mount signs along extensive boundaries with no fence posts already available is to attach them to boundary trees. I don’t like to use nails because nails have a tendency to work out over time. Instead, I prefer to use stainless steel screws to attach signs to trees because screws can be adjusted and backed-out as the tree grows. A drawback to attaching signs to trees, however, is that it can be somewhat inconsistent and “messy” due to differences in tree diameters and tree growth angles.

3. The final decision is how often to hang a sign.
While this will depend upon your budget and if you have 10 acres or 10,000 acres, I think about every 100 yards is good. In highly vulnerable areas or thickly vegetated areas, closer spacing might be needed. While posting your property will not automatically keep every trespasser off (I once caught a poacher hunting on one of my greenfields just 100 feet over a boundary even though 2 signs were visible; he claimed that he hadn’t seen either of them), it probably will keep most unintentional and even intentional trespassers off if done in a way that communicates how serious you are. In addition, it will give you peace of mind, not to mention a rock solid case in a court of law.

This article was originally published in Wildlife Trends in June 2003, Volume 3, Issue 6. The images are also from the magazine.

It has been slightly edited to reduce the length.

Dr. Neil A. Waer is a Certified Wildlife Biologist and professional wildlife management consultant specializing in wetlands mitigation and the development of private properties for wildlife, recreation, and timber. In addition, he has served on the faculty of Auburn University as an instructor in the School of Forestry and Wildlife Sciences.

ATV or UTV: Which is right for you?

This is a guest post from Jesse Johnson,
an agent at Southern Land Exchange.




Do you remember traveling around the farm and forest with your Dad or Granddad? Chances are good it was in a pickup truck, probably a full-size pickup with a bench seat and not much else. You know the truck, that sort of plain-jane version that put the “U” in utility. Grandaddy used that truck for work, play and everything in between. With that one vehicle he would commute to work, hunt, fish, trailer most anything, and haul everything from feed-n-seed to kids-n-dogs. That old truck performed so many functions from necessity; trucks and tractors were all that where available. Then along came the 3-wheeler, and a new industry was born. Who could have imagined the exciting variety of utility vehicle options available to today’s forest landowner?

Chances are you have noticed the many different types of recreational vehicles that are being hauled in the beds of pickups or towed behind SUVs today. These vehicles range from the typical 4-wheeler or all-terrain vehicle (ATV) to what most people refer to as gators, mules or rangers. In the recreational vehicle industry, these types of vehicles are more commonly referred to as Recreational Utility Vehicles or UTVs. Today it is hard to find a landowner that does not have an ATV or UTV stirring up dust on their property. It appears they are taking the place of granddaddy’s old, dented pickup for many forest landowners.

Being in the recreational land business, over the last few years I have noticed the increasing presence of UTVs in the field. From cattle farmers to tree farmers, more and more landowners seem to be choosing UTVs to meet their recreation and utility needs. However, ATVs are still popular with a large number of landowners and recreational users. So, how do you decide which one is right for you?

To learn more, I spoke with several ATV and UTV dealers in Georgia. All agreed that sales of UTVs have skyrocketed in recent years. One dealer said that 5 years ago, he sold only 1 UTV for every 5 ATVs he sold. Now he sells 1 UTV for every 2 ATVs. It appears that UTVs are becoming the shining star for consumers.

I also learned that ATV buyers tend to be younger, typically 16-25 years old, and looking for a more adventurous ride. UTV buyers are likely to be over 30 and are looking for, well, more utility than adventure. One dealer said that as the baby boomers are maturing, they are replacing their ATVs with UTVs.

But, to avoid costly mistakes and long-term dissatisfaction, savvy landowners shouldn’t rely upon popularity to make their decision. They should become familiar with the characteristics of both vehicle types in order to get the best value for their hard-earned dollar. So let’s look at the real differences between ATVs and UTVs.

The old 3-wheeler has gone the way of the Dodo, but it’s more powerful and stable offspring, the ATV, is here to stay. When you think ‘ATV’, think 4-wheeled motorcycle. You sit astride a saddle, accelerate with a thumb throttle, brake with levers, and steer with handlebars. ATVs are shorter and narrower than UTVs so they can be more maneuverable in tight spots. Their maneuverability and ability to fit in the bed of a pickup has made ATVs very popular with hunters. Also, they can be quite fast!

Adult-sized ATVs generally cost less than UTVs, somewhere in the $3,000 to $9,000 range. You can compound this saving because you don’t have to buy a trailer. But, good luck toting your tree stand or chainsaw on your ATV you are going to need some bungee cords. And honestly, how comfortable do you feel riding front-and-back with your hunting buddy or forestland guest?

UTVs represent a blend between ATVs and Granddaddy’s truck. You sit side-by-side and operate it with a steering wheel and foot pedals. Roll bars and seatbelts provide added safety, which is especially valuable to those of us with child passengers. Comfort is enhanced by the bench seats, and frequently a roof. There are even after-market cabs available for some models which offer total protection from the elements. UTVs can seat 2 - 6 people and have a small utility bed for tools and equipment. 4-wheel drive versions will go almost anywhere an ATV will.


With all these advantages, it’s no surprise that UTVs have made huge inroads in the offroad market segment. They have a lot to offer today’s forest landowner. Of course, we all know that there is no such thing as a free lunch. The larger footprint of a UTV also makes it less maneuverable than an ATV, and you will need a trailer to move it off property. Also, while UTVs are powerful, they are generally not as fast as ATVs. And they cost more, running between $8,000 and $12,000.

To add to their utility, there are an incredible number of implements available for both ATVs and UTVs. During a brief search, I found box scrapers, disc cultivators, tine cultivators, drag harrows, log haulers, mowers, sprayers, spreaders, 3-point hitches, trailers, and winches. At least one UTV is available with hydraulic lift-and-lower on the 3-point hitch. This makes it a snap for one person to change implements and can provide extra downward pressure on your implement, if necessary. I don’t think anyone would suggest that an ATV or UTV could match the utility of a tractor for big work. But, if you can’t afford a tractor, or if your needs don’t justify that expense, you can get a lot of bang for your buck with one of these off-road vehicles.

So, what’s the upshot? If you hunt and work alone, are on a tight budget or have the need for speed, an ATV might be right for you. And you will still be able to handle smaller farm and forest chores. If you plan to put out duck boxes in the morning, plant a few small food plots by noon, and then take Jimmy, Suzy and Spot down to the pond for some fishing, you may opt for a UTV.

Don’t forget to do your research, though. I especially recommend that you talk with other landowners and visit several dealers. You can also visit Web magazines like ATV Connection Magazine Forum and UTV Today Magazine. Have fun and happy hunting.

This article was originally published in Georgia Forestry Today, Volume 4, Issue 2 (March/April 2008). For subscriptions to the magazine mail / make checks payable to Georgia Forestry Association, PO Box 1217, Forsyth, GA 31029. A year's subscription is $26.00.